May 21st thirteenth stage

May 21^st  thirteenth stage:  La Possoniere to Montsoreau  74 kms

Weather is still very poor, seemingly the poorest that many people can remember. Today  I covered fewer kilometres than I’d hoped partly because I didn’t start riding until 10.30.  Yesterday, being very cold and wet we took an excellent gite where we were also able to take advantage of WiFi access. Consequently this morning we were working from early on to catch up on correspondence, send blogs etc. We said goodbye to our lovely host and hostess and I set off for Bouchmaine and St Gemmes on pathways that were often only metres from the huge swirling river. From St Gemmes to St Marthurin I followed the old levee which at least for the first part was traffic-free. It is difficult to believe that fundamentally this water defence system has been in place since 1170 and has survived all but the very worst floods. At one point where there was a layby to observe the river I skidded to a halt to say hello to a couple of very crusty old Valaisian chaps in an equally weather beaten van eating lunch. I thought they might have offered me a glass of Fendant to help me on my way, but they didn’t. At least they hooted and waved when they passed me half an hour later.

Still it was raining and still I cycled on, over yet another iron girdered bridge  at St Marthurin to the quiet village of St Remy and then along a kind of corniche with stunning views over the sandbanks, through Le Thoureil to Gemmes and Cunault where the 12^th century church, surprisingly austere, is magnificent.  But in the rain there was no time to waste and I was quickly in Saumur, of whose beauty I had heard a lot. Today though it was nothing but irritation. Undirectional cycle paths which led everywhere but nowhere.   I abandoned them and made enquiries at a petrol station. Taking my life in my hands in the rush hour traffic I descended eventually to the river and the D927 along which the cars were racing as if they were at Brands Hatch. Thinking I was being wise I followed yet another cycle piste which led me in the right direction, thankfully, but down by the riverside along a path that was  axle-deep in clinging river mud. By the time I reached the hotel (there was no question of camping in this driving rain) I was too dirty and embarrassed even to cross the lobby. Guests must have wondered what on earth this 64 year old was doing, pretending to be sixteen. Or more likely they thought they were being visited by one of the troglodites who used to inhabit the caves in the cliffs behind the town.  In the event the lady of the house took pity on me and promised to have my cycling gear washed and dried for the morning.    Maybe today’s clouds had a silver lining.

Not the best day’s cycling I have ever had, and with only a moderate distance covered. It feels like more though.  I am praying for an improvement in the weather but the meteo isn’t promising.  74 kms. Total 926 kms since Galway. Should pass the 1000 mark tomorrow, all being well.