September 13th Stage 42
Kolacso to Mohacs 83 kms
I was sorry to leave Kalocsa, and indeed we didn’t leave as
early as we had intended because of a lot of WATU business that needed seeing
to, especially as we had internet connection in the local coffee shop where we
took breakfast.
The weather was not at all promising. But at least there was
the 22kph north westerly tailwind! In fact, turning out of Kalocsa in
completely the wrong direction I was wondering how I could still be riding into
a southerly wind. Surely that would have been warm and this morning it was
decidedly cold.
So, having rectified my error, I made excellent time to Fajsz
where I spent a few minutes, in the company of a solemn old man, admiring the
interior of the church. The guide book makes no mention of it, but the brightly
painted, orange interior with what appeared to be delightful paintings in a
naïf style was lovely. Fajsz was also the first commune I had come across
during the whole trip with its own Euro6 signposting. This signposting led me
up onto the dyke which until it passed under the new M8 motorway had been like
riding on cinders. After that, though, and for a full 12 kilometres to the
national park centre, and even beyond that to Baja, it was an incredibly smooth
ride on brand new tarmac. This area, though, which passes through the beautiful
Donau-Drava Nezmeti national park,is very lonely, and even more so after Baja
and Szeremie where in an hour’s riding I came across nobody at all. I must
admit that once or twice I wondered if what I was doing was wise. I finished
the last few kilometres to the ferry at Ujmohacs, which I suddenly began to
think might stop at 6pm, at a tremendous lick, along a bone jarringly rutted
track made of smashed tarmac. I was very pleased that I had made the decision
back in Fajsz to change to the VTT tyres.
The ferry crossing, especially in the serious cold rain
which had set in since early afternoon, was not at all romantic. The so- called
blue Danube was a muddy brown and the small town of Mohacs on the other side,
where we had decided to stay the night, looked uninspiring.
But I had made good progress. The Croatian border is only
ten kilometres away but the forecast is for bad weather and accommodation might
be difficult to find. Certainly, and even if campsites were available, which
they aren’t, it looks as if camping will be out of the question for the next
few days.
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