September 18th
“Rest Day” Batajnica to Zemun to
Belgrade to Zemun 32 kms
Before I could appreciate a rest day there was the little
business of completing the short section from the busy satellite town of
Batajnica to Zemun, the suburb of Belgrade where we were staying. I wasn’t
looking forward to it because the road is clearly dangerous for cyclists.
However, by dint of using every bit of rough pavement, garage entry ways, a
rough dirty gravel strlp on the edge of the tarmac and not wasting any time the 11 kilometres
passed without incident.
Feeling pleased with myself I decided to continue into the
centre of Belgrade. Turning left towards the Danube and off the main road at
the first opportunity I passed through residential Zemun with its charming old
cottages and then beneath the Gardos, the ancient but well-preserved tower that
marked the furthest limits of the Austro-Hungarian empire from which there is a
fabulous view over Belgrade, and down the steep slippery polished cobblestones
where a very pleasant surprise awaited me. Noticing a very small bicycle repair
shop at the bottom of the steep Sindeliceva I decided to pop in and buy a set
of lights for the unlighted tunnels that I knew I would encounter in the Danube
Gorge. Mr Katic, the proprietor of Bajs Bicikli Servis could not have been more
helpful. He gave me excellent advice about the route in the gorge, information
about accommodation there, the condition of the roads, and left me his
telephone number insisting I call him if we encountered difficulties……as well
as selling me the lights I required. I would say his shop is a must for all
bicycle tourists.
Later in the day I rode slowly into the city, enjoying the
holiday atmosphere (even though it was Tuesday afternoon) on the quays and
promenades that follow first the Danube and then the Sava. I carried my bike up
the steps onto the Bratstvo I jedinstvo bridge, rode carefully with other
cyclists weaving in and out of the pedestrians as far as the lift that
transports cyclist back down to the riverside. There appeared to be a problem
with the lift, so calling it a day, I rode back to Zemun where later on that
evening, after a meal on the banks of the river, Katherine and I enjoyed the
bizarre experience of watching Monty Python and the Holy Grail on an open air screen that was bending a
little in the evening breeze. John Cleese would have appreciated that, I think,
as much as the young audience who were enjoying the quirky British humour.
Tomorrow we head for the gorge.
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