Wednesday 19 September 2012

September 18th “Rest Day” Batajnica to Zemun to Belgrade to Zemun


September 18th  “Rest Day”  Batajnica to Zemun to Belgrade to Zemun  32 kms

Before I could appreciate a rest day there was the little business of completing the short section from the busy satellite town of Batajnica to Zemun, the suburb of Belgrade where we were staying. I wasn’t looking forward to it because the road is clearly dangerous for cyclists. However, by dint of using every bit of rough pavement, garage entry ways, a rough dirty gravel strlp on the edge of the tarmac  and not wasting any time the 11 kilometres passed without incident.


Feeling pleased with myself I decided to continue into the centre of Belgrade. Turning left towards the Danube and off the main road at the first opportunity I passed through residential Zemun with its charming old cottages and then beneath the Gardos, the ancient but well-preserved tower that marked the furthest limits of the Austro-Hungarian empire from which there is a fabulous view over Belgrade, and down the steep slippery polished cobblestones where a very pleasant surprise awaited me. Noticing a very small bicycle repair shop at the bottom of the steep Sindeliceva I decided to pop in and buy a set of lights for the unlighted tunnels that I knew I would encounter in the Danube Gorge. Mr Katic, the proprietor of Bajs Bicikli Servis could not have been more helpful. He gave me excellent advice about the route in the gorge, information about accommodation there, the condition of the roads, and left me his telephone number insisting I call him if we encountered difficulties……as well as selling me the lights I required. I would say his shop is a must for all bicycle tourists.


Later in the day I rode slowly into the city, enjoying the holiday atmosphere (even though it was Tuesday afternoon) on the quays and promenades that follow first the Danube and then the Sava. I carried my bike up the steps onto the Bratstvo I jedinstvo bridge, rode carefully with other cyclists weaving in and out of the pedestrians as far as the lift that transports cyclist back down to the riverside. There appeared to be a problem with the lift, so calling it a day, I rode back to Zemun where later on that evening, after a meal on the banks of the river, Katherine and I enjoyed the bizarre experience of watching Monty Python and the Holy Grail  on an open air screen that was bending a little in the evening breeze. John Cleese would have appreciated that, I think, as much as the young audience who were enjoying the quirky British humour.


Tomorrow we head for the gorge.

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